A Memory from our Snorri Plus Trip in 2016
- Alfreda Erickson Duffy
- Aug 16
- 5 min read
by Alfreda Erickson Duffy
Alfreda Erickson Duffy is a volunteer member of the Icelandic Roots Writers Group. She is an accomplished author and researcher of the sagas, in particular the roles of women. Alfreda participated in the Snorri Plus program and has fond memories of that trip. She shares with us a memory of that trip.
I would like to share a memory from our 2016 Snorri Plus trip. There were seven of us with an Erickson/Lundar connection on this tour of twenty people. At the “Meet and Greet” evening, many relatives turned up, more than we ever expected to meet. It was an overwhelmingly emotional evening. I am in the process of documenting all the cousins we were so fortunate to have met into my family histories.
One group was Johann Kjartansson with his aunts, sisters Birna and Unnur. Johann was the son of Kjartan Halldorsson (I93390) who was a brother to Johann’s aunts. And an interesting man who I would like to introduce to everyone. Kjartan was my mother’s 2nd cousin, through her mother Halldora Sveinsdottir (I401772). In the photo are some of the cousins we went out for dinner with that evening. L-R Birna Halldorsdottir, brother Larry, Johann Kjartansson, Unnur Halldorsdottir, Jona, Unnur’s daughter, and Johanna, Johann’s wife. Sadly, Unnur passed away in 2024 on the 12th of June after a short illness.
This well-known Reykjavik restaurant where we met our cousins is known as the Sægreifinn in Iceland, or the Sea Baron in English. Originally established by Johann’s father Kjartan, who passed away in 2015, the year before we arrived, was quite the character. His story fascinates me and now I would like to share it with you.
Originally, he was a cook on one of Iceland’s Coast Guard vessels. For whatever reason though he became unemployed. Possibly when the fishing industry went down the tubes in the 1990s. Kjartan survived, he set up a fisherman’s shack, then set about cleaning and grilling the fish caught by anglers on the Reykjavik harbour. He expanded by selling his homemade lobster soup which attracted many people.
By 2003, he was able to establish his own restaurant where he bought and cooked a variety of fish, as well as other seafood, plus he continued to make his now-famous lobster soup. There is a story that a few local restaurants shunned him and tried to shut him down using the excuse that he had no license. Before they had a chance to do so he had quietly applied for one which gave him the right to open the doors of the Sægreifinn (Sea Baron) and invite all and sundry into his newly established, affordable eating place.
Whether the following tidbit is true or not I do not know, according to the story told, he went out into the main streets waving his license in the air with great delight. It was like giving his deterrents the "finger." This restaurant of his was not fancy nor was it well established, like the other ones in town. Although like those others, it too became well established, but unlike his predecessors, it became quite famous. The restaurant has attracted the attention of many travellers, some of them foodies, thanks to the many tour guidebooks that featured articles about him. Today these hungry travellers create long queues hoping this restaurant lives up to their recommendation for an affordable but delicious meal.
When I mentioned previously "not fancy," this restaurant is just a bunch of harbour shacks stacked together. The décor is basic, with an eclectic mix of photographs and memorabilia. But the Sægreifinn, (Sea Baron) is the success it is today because of Kjartan, who was an amazing cook/chef and such a character. Of course, the huge increase in tourism would have been a big bonus. Plus, the mini museum is an attraction as well. There is even a wax figure that looks just like him sitting in a corner of his restaurant surrounded by all the fishing paraphernalia. You must see it to believe it!
We missed meeting this interesting man by just a year. But happily, for us, Johann introduced us to his father’s restaurant. On entering its doors, we had to bypass a long queue to get to the upper private level, then try to ignore unhappy comments from the hungry line of travellers: “Get to the back of the bus.” “Hey man, wait your turn.” etc., etc. It was worth it as it turned out to be a delightful evening, filled with delicious food and amazing company. Two of the cousins that were there are missing from the previous photo as are Karen and I. Þórhalla Grétarsdóttir (I88730) and Ingveldur Sigurðardóttir (I154827). Takk fyrir cousin Johann.
Here is a good write-up that will help to back up my version of his story:
“Kjartan Halldórsson, a chef, fisherman and entrepreneur, turned his fish shop into a restaurant and created a legend. At his Sea Baron restaurant on the Reykjavik harbour, the retired Coast Guard chef created a recipe for what has been called the “world’s greatest lobster soup.” Bouillon crafted from a blend of lobster shells, halibut skin and salmon skin, combines with heavy cream, spices and succulent lobster meat. It’s served with the toast to savour every drop. Just look for the green fisherman’s hut, where you can taste the creamy, salty and delicious lobster soup for yourself. Also famous for fresh seafood barbequed on skewers, the grill spears feature trout, salmon, shrimp, cod, scallops, redfish, catfish, plaice and more.” 1
I can vouch for the scallops, the biggest and best I have ever tasted. Another thing Larry and I tried on Johann’s dare, was whale meat. We were very apprehensive at first. It was prepared like the Italian version of carpaccio. At least that is what I thought, but however it was prepared it was simply delicious, and we fought over the rest. But do not forget to check out the above link as there is a short video narrated by the woman who now owns the restaurant, Elisabet Jean Skúladóttir (I387285), who joined Kjartan in 2005. She is our 7th cousin through my dad’s side, through his afi Jón Jónsson/Eiriksson (IR# I334689). Kjartan asked her to buy the place in 2011 and she promised him then that she would not change the place. She has kept her word.
Since 1999, the Snorri programs, Snorri, and Snorri West have changed the lives of many of our young people. With thanks to our local Icelandic clubs and to Icelandic Roots for encouraging as well as sponsoring many of our young people enabling them to travel to Iceland, our ancestral land. To learn about its history, geology, and language, to either discover the sagas or become encouraged to delve deeper into them. Most importantly, they meet up with relatives, both known and unknown. Not only do these programs create life-changing experiences it has also enabled some to create a new life and make Iceland their home.
I wonder what our ancestors would think of this reversal of migration. As a Snorri Plus participant we do not receive sponsorships but the end results and many of the educational parts of this programs are remarkably similar. By connecting us with relatives that some of us would have been too shy to contact has also changed our lives forever. Little did we know that our cousins would be so welcoming. A huge thank you from all of us to the Snorri initiatives.
I highly recommend travelling to Iceland through one of their programs.
Sources
1“The Sea Baron: Lobster Soup” in Xtreme Foodies [website]. Retrieved from https://www.xtremefoodies.com/europe/iceland/review/The-Sea-Baron/Lobster-Soup-/8817_9076.
Egilsson Ragnar. "Remembering The Sea Baron" (23 Mar 2015) in Reykjavík Grapevine [website]. Retrieved from https://grapevine.is/news/2015/03/23/remembering-the-sea-baron/.
